Harriet Bennett
Choosing hardy breeds for a British climate
Before you order anything, decide what you actually want from your hens. A small flock of four to six birds will give most households more eggs than they can eat through spring and summer, with a quiet spell in late autumn when the birds moult. If your priority is a steady supply of large brown eggs, a hybrid layer such as a Bluebell, Blacktail or Warren is hard to beat: they will often produce 280 to 300 eggs in their first laying year and they cope well with damp, chilly weather.
If you like the idea of pure breeds, choose ones with good track records in wet, windy conditions. Light Sussex, Buff Orpington, Plymouth Rock, Rhode Island Red and Marans are all robust and calm. For something a little different, Cream Legbars and Araucanas lay blue or green eggs and are decent foragers. Bantams eat less and suit smaller gardens, but their eggs are small and their egg numbers lower.
Aim to buy point-of-lay pullets at around 16 to 20 weeks old. They will start laying within a few weeks of arriving, and you avoid the long, anxious wait of rearing chicks. Buy from a reputable breeder where you can see the birds moving about, and check for bright eyes, clean vents, smooth legs and a lively interest in food.
The coop: space, shelter and ventilation
Hens need a dry, draught-free but well-ventilated house. Damp is far more dangerous to them than cold, so ventilation high up and away from where the birds roost matters more than insulation. A coop that is sealed tight will steam up, smell and encourage respiratory problems.
As a working guide, allow:
- 25cm of perch per bird, set at least 45cm off the floor, with a removable droppings tray beneath.
- One nest box per four to five hens, roughly 30cm square, lined with clean, dust-free shavings.
- At least 1 square metre of covered run per bird, and ideally double that if they cannot free-range during the day.
- A pop hole that closes securely at night, ideally with an automatic opener if you are out at dusk.
Site the coop on a hard, level base such as paving slabs or a wooden platform, raised slightly off the ground. This stops the timber rotting, deters rats from tunnelling underneath, and makes cleaning far easier. A covered run is worth the extra cost in a British winter — hens hate standing in mud and will spend far more time outdoors if they have a dry roof over part of the run.
Security: foxes, rats and the nightly routine
Foxes are the single biggest threat to a garden flock, and they are bold in daylight as well as at night. Flimsy chicken wire will not stop a determined fox; use welded galvanised mesh with openings no larger than 25mm, and bury an apron of mesh at least 30cm outwards and downwards around the entire run perimeter. Check gates, latches and any gap larger than a golf ball. An electric poultry net is a worthwhile addition if you move your birds around a paddock.
Rats are the other persistent problem. They come for spilled feed, so store layers' pellets in a metal bin with a tight lid, feed in a hanging feeder rather than scattering grain on the ground, and clear up windfall fruit. Never leave food out overnight.
The daily and weekly rhythm
Hens reward routine. A simple pattern works well:
- Morning: open the pop hole, top up the feeder, rinse and refill drinkers, and do a quick head count and health check.
- Midday or afternoon: collect eggs, and let the birds out to range if it is safe to do so.
- Dusk: shut the pop hole and count the birds onto the perch. This is non-negotiable — a single forgotten evening can end the flock.
- Weekly: scrub drinkers, poo-pick the run, turn the bedding, and inspect perches and nest boxes for red mite.
- Monthly: full clean of the coop, fresh shavings throughout, and a check of mesh, latches and roofing.
Red mite is the scourge of wooden coops. These tiny grey specks hide in crevices by day and feed on the birds at night, causing anaemia and poor laying. Wipe perches and joints with a suitable poultry-safe treatment and dust corners with diatomaceous earth as part of your weekly routine.
Feeding, bedding and keeping hens healthy
Feed a balanced layers' pellet or mash as the main ration — around 120g per bird per day — and keep it available from first light. Supplement with mixed corn in the late afternoon during cold spells, and offer shell-forming grit and insoluble poultry grit in separate small hoppers. Kitchen scraps are fine in moderation, but never give them anything mouldy, salty or from the meat table.
Use dust-free wood shavings rather than straw, which holds damp and harbours mites. Worm your flock two or three times a year with a poultry wormer, and watch for lice around the vent and scaly leg mite, which shows as raised, crusty scales on the legs. A hen that is hunched, pale-combed or last to the feeder needs isolating and watching closely.
A few practical matters before you buy
Check your position first. If you rent, get your landlord's permission in writing. If you keep an allotment, confirm the plot rules allow livestock. In Great Britain, anyone keeping 50 or more poultry must register their flock with the relevant government department, and you should keep an eye on any local avian influenza restrictions that require birds to be housed.
Finally, be honest about holidays. Hens need someone reliable to let them out, feed them and shut them in every single day, so line up a neighbour or friend before the pullets arrive. Get the housing and routine right first, and a small flock will repay you with years of fresh eggs, excellent compost material and a great deal of quiet pleasure.
